The most unique retreat of a ski tour
When the weather doesn’t line up quite right, the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt can become quite a logistical challenge. What do you do if you can’t continue from one hut to the next over exposed glaciated terrain? How do you bail? Where do you pivot?
Fortunately, it is possible to descend from any of the classic stops on this world-class ski tour to a village, take a taxi around, and climb back up to the next hut if conditions are appropriate. It is worth describing the most unique bail I have ever found on a ski tour, though. The Prafleuri Hut sits just about in the middle of the tour and might be the most complicated place to retreat from on the route. There is a fair bit of overhead hazard on the ski out of the hut; however, after WWII, the Swiss began construction of the dam that now forms Lac Dix. This project required an enormous amount of gravel that was sourced from a mine that now traverses a kilometer through the mountain from the head of the dam to the front door of the Prafleurie hut. If the conditions aren’t quite right to continue on the high route, then it is likely not ideal to retreat under the looming avalanche terrain around the hut, so the tunnel becomes the best option!
After waking the next morning to 50mph winds, it was obvious that we were not taking the high route to our next stop at the Dix hut, so we decided the safest option would be to walk through the kilometer-long tunnel to the slopes next to the dam. After locating the iron door and prying it open, we holstered our skis, put the Lord of the Rings theme song on full blast, and began walking to the far end. We were warned that the iron door at the end of the tunnel could be frozen shut and we would have to come back, but fortunately we were able to pry it open with a couple of strong backs.
After exiting the tunnel, the final ski-out is no gimmie. The aspect, angle, and temperatures on these slopes were concerning enough to do some belayed ski cuts before committing to them. After some assessment and discussion, we began skiing down one at a time to the old road leading to the village of Pralong.
The village of Pralong has everything you need to wait for a taxi pick-up..World-class coffee!
The entrance to the Prafleuri tunnel.
Approaching the exit of the tunnel
Emerging from the Prafleuri Tunnel
The exit slopes above the Grande Dixence Dam
5 star coffee in Pralong while waiting for our shuttle pick up.
